Letters from the River 

Rio Grande, January, 2006
by
   Richard Morin  

Well here it is:

I have been canoeing for 28 years now. A buddy of mine took me a on a weekend trip that many years ago, and I have been hooked ever since.

It is one thing to visit someplace, but it is another to be in it. Canoeing puts you where you really are and makes you one active participant, not an observer. I usually get in about 400 miles a year up here in CANADA. I  stop only when everything freezes over.

I always wanted to extend my season and, thanks to 2 fine Texans who answered my email on this site, Mark Boyden and Jeff Pine, I did my first journey on the Boquillas section (RGV to La Linda), Thanksgiving, 2003. Still my favourite section. These guys must have been real short of participants as they invited me on a second section, the Lower Canyons, Thanksgiving, 2004.

Boy, am I hooked, now.

Thanks to the great generousity of Mark and Jeff. They lent me everything I could need to canoe the RG again. Right from the vechicle to the canoe. So, I said to myself, let's do a real good run this time. So, I did Lajitas to La Linda. Which would never have been possible without Mark and Jeff and Keith

Who is Keith? Well, if you check out Louis Aulbach's website, you will see the guy sure likes challenges.

Keith Bowden inspired me to solo just a short section (127 miles) of what he has done. Check it out on Louis's site. It's really a great story. Not only did he encourage me to solo, he shuttled me from La linda to Lajitas, no charge (A debt he owed to the canoe gods. Ask him about it sometime. It's a real good story.)

So back to the trip:

The Great Unknown is totally underrated. It is fabulous. Really relaxing, and it gives you the time to go inside yourself and really be at peace. The section is a true investment in yourself. I managed to give a little back to this world when I found a cow stuck in the mud not far past Santa Elena. I would like to take whole credit for pulling the cow out, but I can't. The damn thing was too heavy. So, what do you do then?

Well, you stay put, whistle like crazy, and hope some local will show you how to rescue a 1000 lb animal.

Fortunately, Alberto, on the Mexican side, heard me, and with his pickup, pulled the animal free. Alberto had a really good sense of humour. He told me he had heard my distress call quite a bit earlier, but he was afraid I was a terrorist, so he waited until he thought I was OK.

Alberto told me he had the highest esteem for Americans. This was not the first time an American pulled out one of his cows. I told him I was noYank, I was a Kanuck. And he said to me: "Same thing."

I told you he had a good sense of humour.

Some wonderful employees at Far Flung refilled my water at one point. Thanks, fellas. (The water even had ice in it. Almost better than a beer.)

As well, a group of 23 students from Messiah College, out of Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, who, through their water refill, allowed me to stay out on the river one more night before I hit RGV. (Thanks, Dave.)

Anyway, on went the trip, with a great stop at the Hot Springs RGV. What a way to clean up after a week of mud!

At Boquillas village, a local invited me for supper. Fed me and told me to watch out for banditos further on. Interestingly, Alberto told me to watch out for the same thing in Boquilllas village. Ever noticed that the bad guys are always in the next village?

Anyway, take out came after 12 relaxed days. And, sure enough, Keith was there to shuttle me back to Lajitas. And, in typical Texas fashion, he met me with a case of beer which we took care of in short fashion.

Anyway, that's it folks. All this to say that, after visiting 33 different countries, the south of the US is the most generous and hospitable place I have had the pleasure to visit...after north Korea (just a little joke).

Thanx, you all!!!

Richard
Montreal, Kanada
February 3, 2006

PS: I'll be back!!!



OK, folks, you got it out of me:

I did have 2 small setbacks on my trip. First of all, I dumped at Rock Slide. Rock Slide is no big deal, but just like the RG parks pamflet says, there is no pillow effect on the curves because of the undercuts. Well, I found this out first hand. All my gear was tied in, with no consequences, except a my pride.

And, also, close to the village of San Vincente, which I had planned to re-fill up on water, I couldn't find the place. I knew I was in the correct general area by all the truck tracks and rubbish about; but, no, I couldn't find it. The only sign of life was an old donkey who wouldn't help me in the least. Frankly, the animal was a real jackass, if you ask me.

Richard Morin
Montreal, Kanada


Louis,

I called you a couple times in the past and your info paved the way to all 3 of these trips. I knew when I bought your LC book I would do it. I bought your LC book, and I read it at least 5 times over 5 years before I got the transborder logistics all setup, and did it.

I tried to pick up your book on the Great Unknown in both Austin and at the permit place in Lajitas. Now, I realize why I couldn't get it. I gather it is not out yet. When, it is out I will purchase it instantly. If you can include in your book details of where to stop to visit the Mexican towns, it would be of great help to me.

I have never met a Mexican I haven't liked, however, I was only able to visit Boquillas and La Linda, as I could not find Santa Elena nor San Vincente. I knew where they were supposed to be, and I could see by the rubbish in the area I was close by, but I couldn't figure out if it was upriver or down, and the donkey at San Vincente was not very helpful, a real ass, if you ask me.

For your info, La Linda has zero of interest, and, after 4 hours of exploration, I met nobody, although Keith told me that there is a caretaker there (not that day). An interesting anecdote is the church is a good mile and a half out of town on the western end. Why it is so far removed must have some interesting story to it. Also, it was one of the few buildings that had not been cleaned out. The chuch benches, altars, pictures of the Ways of the Cross, and even the chalice, were untouched.

Any, and I mean any, info that I have posted is all yours to do whatever you see fit. Any any other questions, comments you would like, please feel free to ask or use. It would be a pleasure. I live to canoe.

Richard Morin
Montreal, Kanada

Copyright by Louis F. Aulbach, 2006

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