Most visitors to
Hot Springs in the Big Bend have noticed the colorful murals painted on
the walls of the various historic structures there including the house
on the hill, the visitors cabins and the old store/post office. But I
wonder how many have ever been curious enough to find out who painted
them? If you're one of the curious ones, here's the "rest of the story."
The buildings at Hot Springs were originally
constructed by J.O. Langford beginning in 1909 and have been occupied
by several individuals over the years.
1
In the late 1940s, Peter Koch and his wife Etta
moved to the Big Bend from Ohio where it was hoped that Etta would
regain her health in the desert climate. Pete was a newspaper
photographer and planned to become a full-time producer of wildlife
films. The family spent some of their time in the Big Bend at Hot
Springs where, in the early 1950's, Pete was operating a photo
concession. Pete and Etta Koch rented the Livingstone House at Hot
Springs (the house on the hill). The house was one large room with a
fireplace which served as living room, kitchen and general quarters
including bedrooms and was in a "bad state of repair".
2

To brighten the place up, Etta and Pete decided to
do some painting. In Etta's own words, "the huge plastered and cracked
gray walls had been forbidding and stark. Even a sizeable picture, if
we'd had one, would have left yards and yards of blankness around it.
When Pete had the idea of painting the largest space, he bought a can
of green paint which he swished on the ten by ten foot space to form a
giant prickly pear - complete with buds - the prickly pear of our
desert... Later I purchased more paint and put the thorns and details
in place as well as the backdrop of Casa Grande." She continues, "This
led to further painting activities... For the kitchen wall... I
fashioned a Mexican boy kneeling beside his burro. The cracks in the
wall became wonderful saguaro (cactus) specimens."
3
Maggie Smith, who was still running the trading post
at Hot Springs at the time, was impressed with Etta's paintings and
asked her to do one for her using some "old paint cans in the yard
behind her kitchen". They found a small amount of red, blue, yellow and
green. Etta painted her "Madonna of the Desert" fashioned after a
Mexican woman she had seen washing her baby in the nearby Tornillo
Creek. Maggie liked it so much that she asked Etta to paint her kitchen
as well. "She liked my little Mexican boy with the burro, so up went
the likeness." However, before the murals were finished the paint ran
out and the murals remained unfinished but Maggie loved them
nevertheless".
4
Etta Koch has written a wonderful book describing in
great detail her life in the Big Bend and especially her time living at
Hot Springs. The book, Lizards on the Mantel, Burros At the Door: A Big
Bend Memoir, is available through the Big Bend Natural History
Association and at several bookstores including Front Street Books in
Alpine and Marathon. The book is well worth reading to get a very
realistic glimpse of

what life was like in the Big Bend at its very beginning as a National
Park.
Although she did not paint the rooms in the visitors
cabins, Etta Koch says in her book that occasionally a visitor would
feel compelled to brighten the interior of the cabin rooms with
"colorful paint, calendars, and an occasional print or two. One
individual added a special touch when she painted the head of a horse
on the wall next to the bed."
5 According to Ross Maxwell's
book, Maisie Lee, an artist in Marathon was responsible for the murals
on the visitors cabins walls.
6
In one passage of her book, Koch voices her
amusement over comments made by a visitor from a "well-known
institution" that the paintings on the walls of the rooms at Hot
Springs were surely primitive Mexican artwork and should be "peeled"
off the walls for preservation!
7
Shortly before publication of her book, Etta Koch
revisited her home at Hot Springs. She found her house in disrepair and
vandalized, with the roof missing and the fireplace destroyed. However,
she was bemused to note that the paintings she and Pete had put on the
walls, although sun bleached and faded were still there. She walked on
to Maggie's store and although the paintings remain, they had been
"retouched" with paints of different colors to the ones she had
originally used.
8 Still, the paintings remain as a lasting
tribute to a woman who tried to make a crumbling one room stone house
in the Big Bend a home.
Etta Koch lived and worked in the Big Bend from 1947
until 1959 and served for several years as secretary to Ross Maxwell,
the first superintendent of Big Bend National Park. She moved to Alpine
in 1959 and spent the next four decades serving her community there.
She passed away in Abilene in 2004, having surpassed her 100th birthday.
9
________________________________